AT A RECENT dinner party in New York, designer Narciso Rodriguez noticed something unusual. “Everyone was dressed up. The younger people, especially, were wearing beautiful clothes,” Mr. Rodriguez said. “It used to be that fashion kids were too cool to dress up.”
It would seem that a tectonic shift is happening in after-eight wardrobes. While ripped boyfriend-jeans with a velvet jacket, or a fisherman sweater with a sequin skirt qualified as evening chic for the last several years, dressing up—in the fullest and most feminine sense of the term—is cool again.
Bungalow 8 founder Amy Sacco, who is currently the creative director of special projects at restaurant group LDV Hospitality, has been seeing a spike in formality. “Both women and men are making more of an effort,” she said. “Ball gowns and tuxes are a quarter of the room from October to December, mixed with lots of cocktail attire.” Sofia Barattieri, founder of social shopping site Motilo, said she has noticed more red lipstick, spindly high heels and shimmery cocktail dresses in recommendations for night-out style from the site’s coterie of “Motilo girls” (socialites and chic lasses who dispense fashion advice). “The evening looks being proposed now are much more sexy and glamorous than when we launched in 2011,” said Ms. Barattieri. “I think after the economic crisis, women want to have more fun.”
Stylist and shoe designer Tabitha Simmons, whose designs often reference retro glamour, welcomes the change. “It’s important to make the time to celebrate your own femininity and elegance,” she said. “I’m in full support.” She cited as an example of the shift the very polished outfit that model and television host Alexa Chung donned for her own 30th birthday party earlier this month—a white bouclé Chanel coatdress with jeweled buttons, finished with crimson lips. It was a far cry from Ms. Chung’s more typically gamine ensembles. “She looked beautiful,” said Ms. Simmons.
Personally, I’ve always been a bit allergic to going all-out for a night out. Wearing a full face of makeup, a floor-length gown and having my hair done for a party has always made me feel overcooked. But recently, I’ve been inspired to roll on fishnet stockings, slide into slinky cocktail dresses and hot- roller my hair.
Perhaps it’s because designers who are known more for their cerebral daywear than after-sunset looks are going glam. This fall, we saw Miuccia Prada’s sexy off-the-shoulder dresses and fabulous furs, Dries Van Noten’s floaty ostrich feather shifts and Marc Jacobs’s sequined evening dresses and fox stoles. “Over the last couple seasons it became clear that designers were putting more of an emphasis on evening wear,” said Noor Al Sabah, fashion director of On Motcomb, a new London boutique that specializes in party frocks from the likes of Jason Wu, Carolina Herrera and Marios Schwab. “In turn,” she added, “I noticed a slow shift in the way women dressed to go out.”
Sonnet Stanfill, curator of the coming exhibition “The Glamour of Italian Fashion” at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, also points to brands ratcheting up their fanciful offerings. “The fact that Dolce & Gabbana and Giambattista Valli launched couture lines in just the past two years proves there’s more demand for evening wear, especially in emerging markets,” she said. That’s why brands like Chanel, Valentino and Dior increasingly take their couture shows on the road to Russia and China. “In emerging markets,” said Mario Ortelli, a senior luxury analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein, “sophisticated consumers have more occasion to wear this kind of evening dress.”
Beauty also plays a crucial role in this shift. “We went through a time where an understated makeup look was more on trend,” said Pat McGrath, a makeup artist and the global creative-design director of Procter & Gamble, where she oversees CoverGirl, Max Factor and Dolce & Gabbana’s cosmetics line. Now, Ms. McGrath sees women taking more risks, and does her part to encourage it. For Dolce & Gabbana’s fall show, she combined smoky eyes with bold-hued lips, instead of choosing one or the other.
James Pryce, a hair stylist at Josh Wood salon in London—and the former tress-tender of the Duchess of Cambridge—said that more of his clients (including Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie) are coming in for pre-soiree ‘dos. He recommends styles that aren’t quite perfect. “I like hair that looks almost like the woman has done it herself,” he said. “But that, of course, takes a considerable amount of work.” The slightly undone beehive is one of his favorite styles of the moment.
For decadent-night-life inspiration, there is no shortage of new books and exhibitions. Diana Oswald’s recent Rizzoli title, “Debutantes: When Glamour was Born,” provides a glimpse into the golden age of coming-out parties. Then there’s the exhibit “Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!” which runs through March at London’s Somerset House and features Daphne Guinness’s personal collection of the late Ms. Blow’s clothing, including an awe-inspiring party wardrobe. “Pearls” at the Victoria & Albert Museum displays Marilyn Monroe’s simple strand (a gift from Joe DiMaggio) alongside a pearl-encrusted gown worn by Queen Elizabeth II. Come April, the V&A debuts “The Glamour of Italian Fashion,” which will feature, among other things, the Mila Schön gown worn by Lee Radziwill to Truman Capote’s 1966 Black and White Ball. Now there’s a party that proved a truly fabulous look is more than half the battle in creating a night to remember.
1. RAID YOUR MOTHER’S CLOSET Revive the spirit of the pouf dress, along with diamond-encrusted accessories and sleek Manolos.
Dress, ; Clutch, ; Sandals, ; Kenneth Jay Lane Earrings, ; Gloves, ; Watch, ; Red Red Red Lipstick,
2. MATCH YOUR ACCESSORIES But not exactly. Think of it as going tonal: Group different colors in the same family insteadof opting for a single hue.
Fur Scarf, ; Pumps, ; Balenciaga Clutch, ; Lanvin Dress, ; Guerlain Cruel Gardenia Eau de Parfum, ; Marly Earrings,
3. INVEST IN OUTERWEAR What you wear over your evening dress is as important as the dress itself. Don’t give your coat short shrift. Go for an embellished topper and don’t look back.
Dress, ; Phillips House Ring, ; Compact, ; Mary Jane Ballerinas, ; Wristlet Bag, ; Coat,
0 comments:
Post a Comment