IPMI Lifts Lid on Trends of 2014
(Photo courtesy of IPMI)
Since it was first established in 1986, the Indonesia Fashion Designers Council, or IPMI, the oldest guild of fashion designers in the country, has released its annual trend forecasts. This year was no exception; at a recent fashion show at the Gandaria City mall in South Jakarta, the association presented new designs that are sure to make a splash in 2014.
“Our trend shows have always been an important barometer for fashion development in Indonesia,” said IPMI founder and chairwoman Syamsidar Isa.
This year, the main theme of the IPMI’s trend show was “Reinforcement.”
“The theme is about the association reinforcing itself with new plans, policies and members,” said IPMI spokeswoman and fashion designer Era Soekamto.
IPMI has committed to working more closely with retail and media partners to further develop the organization.
In the trend show, the IPMI also introduced its three newest members: fashion designers Danny Satriadi, Mel Ahyar and Yogie Pratama.
“They’re highly creative,” Era said. “And their age, their work have added color to Indonesia’s fashion industry.”
The three major fashion trends under the main “Reinforcement” theme include “Historical Values,” “Structuralism” and “Future State.”
“These forecasts were made based on the international trend books that we’ve thoroughly discussed and adjusted with the local fashion industry,” Era said. “And we’ve also matched them with local consumer behavior.”
Here are some detailed descriptions and interpretations of each fashion trend in 2014.
Historical values
“People truly respect historical values these days,” said Era, a graduate of LaSalle College of the Arts Singapore.
“Maybe it’s because they’re now tired of the trivial and yearn for the more essential things in life,” she added.
“To get to the essentials, we have to look back [to the past] and look inward [within ourselves].”
In the IPMI trend show, Era presented her collection, themed “1421” and inspired by the best-selling book by British author Gavin Menzies “1421: The Year China Discovered the World.”
“In the book, Menzies claims it was actually the East that inspired the West, and not the other way around,” she said. “And I’m sure that we can again inspire the West with our fashion products.”
Era, who is also the creative director of Iwan Tirta Private Collection (ITPC), used the late batik maestro’s exquisite hand-drawn batik for her 2014 collection presented in the trend show.
These batik, made of soft natural fibers including linen and silk, were fashioned into royal cocktail dresses and evening gowns with traditional kebaya (Javanese women’s blouses) and pareo (sarong) silhouettes. Earthy colors, such as beige, brown and terracotta, adorned the 37-year-old designer’s 2014 collection.
A beautiful gown that stood out from the collection was worn by Indonesian model Paula Verhoeven.
The long dress, made of bronze-hued silk, was simple, yet stunning. A patch of semi-transparent tulle on the chest and shoulders, lined with bronze pearls, highlighted the model’s collar bone.
Paula’s slim waistline was enhanced by terracotta-tinted batik with a neat truntum (small flowers) pattern. The same batik peeked out from between the ruffles of the elegant evening dress.
Fashion designer Mel Ahyar was inspired by the West Javanese wayang golek (wooden puppets) for her 2014 collection, themed “Les Marionettes.”
For the collection, Mel collaborated with Bandung-based illustrator Yona Yu to transform wayang golek characters into fun comical illustrations. These illustrations were then printed on cotton silk, taffeta, organdy silk and crepe silk to make the dresses.
“I’ve always wanted to feature wayang characters in a fun and modern way for my collection,” said Mel, an Esmod Jakarta and Esmod Paris graduate.
The combination of Yona’s comical illustrations and Mel’s tailoring skills resulted in cute dresses that looked both young and romantic.
In the trend show, Indonesian model Laura Muljadi wore Mel’s simple mullet dress. The bodice bore the image of a smiling Gareng , a court jester in the wayang stories, with a large clown-like nose. The simple white dress was paired with a black bolero, embellished with silver embroidery.
Structuralism
“Today’s customers are smart and discerning,” Era said. “They don’t want only beautiful dresses, but also those made with fine materials and excellent cuts that flatter their figures.”
(Photo courtesy of IPMI)
The dress should also be simple and easy to wear to match with the hectic lifestyles of today’s customers.
Therefore, excellent tailoring skills are needed to answer the more complex demands of today’s customers.
Celebrity fashion designer Priyo Oktaviano presented his 2014 collection, “Grains de Sable” (“Grains of Sand”) for his premium pret-a-porter line ‘Spous.”
Soft creamy hues, such as beige, khaki, gray and white, dominated the collection.
Both the men’s and women’s collections in the show consisted of simple daily items with unorthodox cuts, styles and patterns.
“With this collection, I want to show that chic, fashionable looks aren’t necessarily glamorous,” Priyo said.
“As long as the clothes make a strong [fashion] statement that suits the personality of the wearer, [the clothes and the wearers] will get along and exude an aura of confidence.”
Dressed in “Spous” casual dresses, loose-fitted pants, T-shirts and blouses, the models in the show looked sassy and confident.
“The silhouettes are not too complicated, so that they will suit people of many different body types,” said Priyo, a graduate of Esmod Paris.
Most of the fabrics are made of unusual fruit and vegetable fibers, such as bananas, pineapples and water hyacinths.
“[The materials] are light, soft and comfortable to wear all day,” Priyo said.
“And more importantly, they’re eco-friendly.”
IPMI newest member, Yogie Pratama, presented his 2014 collection, titled “Melancholia,” at the trend show.
The collection featured women’s cocktail and evening dresses in simple silhouettes.
Bold colors, such as gold, ruby and black, dominated his collection.
“Life is getting fast-paced and people are becoming much busier these days,” said the designer, a graduate of the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.
“We all want to wear very simple things that look good on us.”
Yogie’s dresses were embellished with floral and leaf appliques, as well as crystals and sequins that were wrapped to subdue their sparkles.
“I wrapped them in lace and shantung silk so that they’re not too shiny,” Yogie said. “This way, they look a bit rough, almost like uncut diamonds.”
In the fashion show, Puteri Indonesia (Miss Indonesia) 2013 Whulandary Herman wore an elegant strapless ball gown by Yogie. The ruby dress was enhanced with intertwining leaf appliques on the bodice and muted sequins all over its voluptuous skirt.
Future state
“The trend ‘Future State’ represents the free, wild and limitless imagination of fashion designers,” Era said.
“Their dresses take on unexpected forms with a touch of surrealism.”
Veteran IPMI designer Tuty Cholid took her imagination to Indonesia’s undersea charms for her 2014 collection titled “Sensuous Radiant Flow.”
Tuty’s dresses, made of chiffon, silk organdy and silk-satin, boasted the luminescent hues of the sea. They were made with original, ethnic tie-dye techniques by traditional artisans in Yogyakarta.
“These colors will be very popular in 2014,” said the 54-year-old designer.
The fit-and-flare silhouettes of some of the dresses made the models look like anemones, cuttlefish and jellyfish floating freely in the sea.
Danny Satriadi’s imagination, on the other hand, took him to the flower garden for his 2014 collection titled “Inflorescence.”
“Flowers have always represented beauty and romance,” said Danny, a graduate of Esmod Jakarta.
His cocktail dresses, made of duchess silk, chiffon and organza in soft pastel hues, were pretty and rather whimsical.
“Pastel colors are fresh and bring on a positive energy for the new year,” Danny said.
Each of them was adorned with discreet embroideries, floral appliques and prints that carried an impression of a flourishing flower garden.
“I’m so proud to have been elected as a member of the IPMI,” said Danny, winner of the Young Fashion Designers Competition (LPM) in 2003.
“Together with other senior members, I want to help develop Indonesia’s fashion industry through the organization,” he added.
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